Jeremy Scott is known for being a stylemaker of his own, using pop culture and street style to create fun bazaar pieces. Some say he was one of the first designers to revamp the eighties. Others, like A$AP Rocky, say he pioneered retro fashion to the ghettos of Harlem with his best-known Adidas collaboration: the JS wings (wing high tops) and JS bears (furry sneakers with teddy bear heads). Either way, Jeremy Scott is not your average, out of the box creative; he is way beyond the box! To think, FIT in New York rejected his application in 1996 after graduating high school. They straight up told him he lacked originality, artistic ability, and creativity. Talk about the ultimate dream killer, hands down! Jeremy could've easily folded, but he was a farm boy from Kansas City, with a big dream. Jeremy was mature enough to know that everyone is not going to like or understand his voice, creativity, or individuality.
Our Dallasites at the Dallas Contemporary Museum welcomed the Jeremy Scott namesake collection and his work as creative director for Moschino with open arms; another two for one special we love so much here! The exhibit housed some of his early designs which he first debuted in Paris, where JS had been only a few years after graduating from the Pratt Institute.
Let's be clear, it was no cake walk. In his words, "he was not bought and brought to Paris like most talent". He went out on a limb in hopes to land an internship with Jean Paul Gaultier, but after going on three interviews it did not fall through the way he planned. It took an intern who worked for the house to shade him and say, "Well if you're so good why you don't you do it yourself?"
It was that moment, Jeremy Scott decided to bring youth culture to Paris (which was non existent at the time) debuting collections like "Rich White Women" and "Duty Free Glamour". Long story short...he got it out the mud, ya heard!. By 99's and the 2000's he was nominated for Best Young Designer by the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA). Shortly after, Scott was featured in The Times, French Vogue, and a few others. In 2001, He won designer of the year at the Daily Show Awards in Los Angeles, California.
Jeremy knew even though, he was being embraced in Paris, being the only American designer he always felt like an outsider. It did not feel like home so he moved back to the States, and relocated to Los Angeles. LA was very Hollywood entertainment and wasn't seen as a fashion capital yet. Jeremy went on to design for prominent artists in Hollywood, like Katy Perry, Madonna, Kanye West, Miley Cyrus, Beyoncé, and Nicki Minaj. My God, we could go all day.
In October 2013, he became Creative Director of Moschino, which was like a match made in heaven. The original founder, Franco Moschino had a heavy influence on Jeremy because of his Tongue in Chic approach towards fashion. Franco Moschino was known for visual puns, anti-fashion, fashion statements and enthusiastic appropriation of other pieces of pop culture.
Franco would also mock fashion classics like the Chanel dinner suit with garnish trimming, which is a well known signature of the fashion house. A few years before he passed, Moschino's campaigns and installations challenged the social issues of the era, raising awareness of drug abuse, climate change, violence, consumerism, pollution, racism, and the AIDS crisis. Overall, Franco mocking disdain for the industry earned Moschino both ridicule and respect among his contemporaries. Ten years later, Jeremy Scott has continued and revamped his legacy of flipping the fashion industry the bird! Breaking all the "rules" through radicalism, wit, humor, and free spirit.
“Funny clothes have to be extremely well made because that is where you find the chic. It’s easy to be funny with a T-shirt, but it’s more clever with a mink coat. After all, if caviar was cheaper it would taste much less interesting.”
Franco Moschino 1994 British GQ.
VIVA AVANT GARDE: A JEREMY SCOTT RETROSPECTIVE showcased the prolific nature of Scott's most proactive and influential creations in fashion. Witnessing a vast selection of clothing, handbags, and footwear all in one room was truly mind-blowing. The exhibit felt like a time capsule; it took fashion goers on an adventure to so many places. Whether it was food or folklore, his unconventional approach tells a sensational story of how he used his everyday influence to birth an aura of fun and playful designs.
Jeremy Scott's influence oozed from the ceiling to the floor. Inspirations from film, eras, mermaids, even a sock or a glove; you name it! A few pieces from his first debut with Moschino was showcased as well. This AW14 collection featured a twist of clubbed fashion and fast-food couture, which he called delicious and nutritious. The AW14 collection received major backlash. Many did not understand why a vegetarian would use a logo like McDonalds in fashion. In a nutshell, they thought it was tacky and quite mediocre. To Jeremy, junk food is more fun, plus he wanted to express how society is so self-conscious about everything from calories to clothes, relating fast food to fast fashion. Side note, I would highly recommend watching Jeremy Scott’s documentary on Netflix, if you are interested in how he created Moschino’s food couture collection.
Good thing Jeremy did not care what the critics thought and we do not blame him. Clothes are mass-produced and high fashion is so short-lived. Jeremy wants his work to live free beyond a fashion season and serve the people. His aesthetic is about excitement and creating those gasp moments for his supporters that will be memorable forever. Even if you do not understand or relate to an art form, it is disrespectful to discredit the dedication and work that goes into creating something from the ground up. Jeremy never understood why the bosses in black took something so disposable like clothes to the extreme. In response, he continues his own extreme by breaking the rules in all ways possible!
Nothing is too far or off limits for Jeremy Scott; he is the anarchist of fashion. He believes that when people say "oh that will never work" or "You can not do that" you make them eat their words and show them that it is possible! Regardless of whether the critiques of high fashion will eventually "accept" him or not, he knows his true acceptance lies with the true critics: the people. The people who are opposite from the norm and in their own lane. Plus, Jeremey reminds us they never made any statues or monuments to honor the "great" critiques anyway. Jeremy Scott may not speak Italian but he sure does speak Moschino!
Edited by Ryan Maples